The partial remains of a British climber are believed to have been found on the slopes of - 100 years after his ascent.
Ahead of the release of a National Geographic documentary film, the channel said the expedition found a foot encased in a sock embroidered with “AC Irvine” and a boot. Andrew “Sandy” Irvine disappeared at the age of 22 along with his co-climber, , near Everest’s peak on June 8, 1924, but his fate was never known.
The pair, who were seeking to become the first people to conquer Everest, were last seen around 800 feet from the summit before they disappeared. Their fate has been debated by climbers and historians alike, with some suggesting they had stood atop of the before heading down and disappearing.
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Mallory’s body was found in 1999 leading to hopes his climb partner could also finally be traced. A quarter of a century later, National Geographic director Jimmy Chin and his team came across the remains while filming on the Central Rongbuk Glacier, below the North Face of Everest, at a lower altitude than Mallory’s remains were located.
Mr Chin and his colleagues, Erich Roepke and Mark Fisher, spotted the leather boot, which they believe had just melted out of ice. They quickly realised its sole was studded and bracketed with the diamond-patterned steel hobnails of a bygone era of climbing. Then, when they looked inside the boot, they discovered a foot.
Mr Chin said: “I think it literally melted out a week before we found it. I lifted up the sock and there’s a red label that has A.C. IRVINE stitched into it. We were all literally running in circles dropping F-bombs. Any expedition to Everest follows in the shadow of Irvine and Mallory.
"We certainly did and sometimes in life the greatest discoveries occur when you aren’t even looking. This was a monumental and emotional moment for us and our entire team on the ground. We just hope this can finally bring peace of mind to his relatives and the climbing world at large."
The find has led to hope evidence might finally be found proving the pair reached Everest’s summit at 29,032 feet, more than 30 years before Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay in 1953. The climbers were given a Kodak Vest Pocket camera by expedition member Howard Somervell which could carry photographic proof they were the first to scale the mountain.
![image](https://opt.toiimg.com/recuperator/imgserver/serve?dimension=400&source=https://i2-prod.mirror.co.uk/incoming/article33872932.ece/ALTERNATES/s810/0_Sandy-Irvine-1902-1924.jpg)
Mr Chin did not say exactly where the remains were found as he wants to discourage trophy hunters. However, he is confident other items — and maybe even the camera — are nearby. The Irvine family has volunteered to compare DNA test results with the remains to confirm his identity. His great-niece and biographer, Julie Summers, said she was emotional when she found out about the discovery.
She said: "When Jimmy told me he saw the name A.C. Irvine on the label on the sock inside the boot, I found myself moved to tears. It was and will remain an extraordinary and poignant moment. It is remarkable this discovery was made in the centenary year of Sandy’s disappearance.
"I have lived with this story since I was a seven-year-old when my father told us about the mystery of Uncle Sandy on Everest. The story became more real when climbers found the body of George Mallory in 1999, and I wondered if Sandy’s body would be discovered next. A quarter of a century after that discovery, it seemed extremely unlikely anything new would be found."
The find, made by Chin along with climbers and filmmakers Erich Roepke and Mark Fisher, was reported to the London-based Royal Geographical Society, which jointly organized Mallory’s and Irvine’s expedition along with the Alpine Club. The partial remains are now in the possession of the Tibet Mountaineering Association, which is responsible for climbing permits on Everest’s northern side.
Royal Geographic Society director, professor Joe Smith, said: "The Society deeply appreciates the respect Jimmy Chin’s team has shown Sandy Irvine’s remains and their sensitivity toward Sandy’s family members and others connected to that expedition. Sandy was an exceptional figure and made a significant contribution to our understanding of Everest and the Himalayas.
"This discovery of his remains provides an element of closure for his relatives and the wider mountaineering community. We are grateful to Jimmy and his team for enabling this and ensuring Sandy is in safe hands."
A statement released on behalf of the family said: “The Irvine family is deeply moved to hear of the discovery of partial remains of Sandy Irvine. "We are grateful to the mountaineering and film team, led by Jimmy Chin, who made the discovery and who have treated it with respect and professionalism. We are happy the remains are now in the hands of the CTMA."
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